12/28/2023 0 Comments Download waves under the sea![]() Significant changes in roughness may be caused by shoaling or by swell. Only for field data corresponding to extremely young waves ( U 10/ c p > 3) were there appreciable differences between the predicted and observed roughness values, the latter being larger on average. This is confirmed using published field data for a wide range of conditions over lakes and coastal seas. ![]() ![]() Thus all deep water, pure windseas, regardless of fetch or duration, extract momentum from the air at a rate similar to that predicted for a fully developed sea. Indeed, the formula suggests that changes in roughness due to limited duration or fetch are of order 10% or less. The proposed formula is shown to predict well the magnitude and behavior of the drag coefficient as observed in wave tanks, lakes, and the open ocean, thus reconciling observations that previously had appeared disparate. It is proposed that the sea surface roughness z o can be predicted from the height and steepness of the waves, z o/ H s = A( H s/ L p) B, where H s and L p are the significant wave height and peak wavelength for the combined sea and swell spectrum best estimates for the coefficients are A = 1200, B = 4.5.
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